“Madam, your friend does not have a
ticket in this coach. So the two of you cannot occupy the same berth here. I
have already allowed you to board in one station prior to your reservation without
charging you the fine. Now don’t make me angry and please go occupy the second
seat you have in the Sleeper Class”.
with that he was gone. For a second time that night. And my only thought was:
Should he return which of our three stories were we going to pitch to him to
win his favour?
was past midnight and the train had just pulled out of Dibrugarh station in
faraway Assam. Kanyakumari was 80 odd hours away! We had boarded the
Dibrugarh-Kanyakumari Vivek Express because I (and now my friend who’d heard
about my seemingly ‘mental’ plan) wanted to experience what it would be like to
be on the longest train route of the Indian subcontinent.
and we had a visibly irked Ticket Checker (TC) on our tail!
|Dibrugarh is the farthest one can go into India's north east by train|
Putting the wheels of a mental plan in
Rewind to two months prior…
It was the month of May when a seemingly absurd idea to train trip
around the country gripped me. I like absurd so I do not mean that with any
disdain. [Read: 7 trains. 18 days. So what is your idea of an adventure? | Outlook Traveller
] Lo and behold, my first journey would be taking me farthest in the
east the Indian Railways can go – to Assam. Our sole reason behind taking the 38 hour
Rajdhani from Delhi was just so that we could board the next train from
Dibrugarh to Kanyakumari that very night!
The two day Rajdhani commencing in New Delhi was easy and comfortable
– primarily because of the timely supply of food. Though the train would go to
Dibrugarh, many of our co-passengers got off at Guwahati. It was the evening
before our scheduled arrival in Dibrugarh the next morning but the train already
seemed somewhat abandoned. But nothing could beat the surprise in the morning as
we watched our remaining co-passengers switch over from being plain clothes
civilians to army jawans in uniforms. Nothing about their demeanour until then
had even mildly suggested that.
|Glimpses from sitting by the window, courtesy Indian Railways|
|School kids tickled by their curiosity on seeing a Rajdhani on its way to Dibrugarh|
Arriving at the eastern most part of the
Fact: Dibrugarh has two railway stations – Dibrugarh Town also known as DBRT
and Dibrugarh known as DBRG, in railway-speak that is. The former is the oldest
railway station in the north east and also the station the Rajdhani had us dropped
at somewhere around 6 AM. A thirty minute rickshaw ride is all it took to get
us to Dibrugarh station from where we’d be boarding the Vivek Express to
Kanyakumari later that night.
we were hopping in and out of Dibrugarh in under 15 hours, we thought it worth
our time to explore the town a little; without our bags preferably. More
importantly we needed a bathroom where we could clean up (after two days on a
train and another impending four day journey on the cards). So we approached
the station master for accommodation. For the uninitiated, railway stations in
India have a provision for accommodation that can be availed of against your
the ticket counter, we were asked to wait as the in-charge on duty would come
in by 10 AM. When at last he did make an
appearance, we were told that a room could not be provided to us as our
reservation was from New Tinsukia, the next station after Dibrugarh. He
suggested that we undertake the one hour road trip to avail of the rooms at the
ticket – well mine for now – was booked online and as bizarre as it had seemed
then, it had not allowed me to select ‘Dibrugarh’ as the source station. And so
I’d gone ahead and selected New Tinsukia as the next available option. Our
friends from across the ticketing window heard us through but were
non-committal. ‘Why don’t you go to New
Tinsukia?’ was an oft heard statement.
managed to gingerly evade the question on why when we’d just arrived by the
Rajdhani in the morning were we taking the Vivek Express out to Kanyakumari
that same night! I wasn’t sure my ‘mental’ plan would seem as exciting to
But no, thankfully no one thought of us as loony; because
we did a great job never disclosing why we were where we were in the first
to our TC friends from across the ticket window at Dibrugarh Railway station, I’d
sensed that they seemed genuinely interested in helping us so I pleaded some
more. After some cajoling we were able to win them over. We booked two General
tickets from Dibrugarh to New Tinsukia as that was the only option before us to
make valid our journey later that night! This ticket provided them with the information
required to punch in our details while making the room reservation. We finally
had a place to dock our stuff and clean up before the next big leg.
|Modest but clean accommodation within the railway premises at Dibrugarh|
|Exploring Dibrugarh on foot|
brushed and luggage left behind in the room, we were ready for Dibrugarh. First
on the list of things to do was breakfast followed by a glimpse of the mighty
Brahmaputra and a little walk around some tea estates. Sourcing a mode of
transport was not too difficult. In fact while we were in the waiting room
earlier that morning we had a couple of auto-rickshaw drivers come up and enquire
whether we needed to be dropped anywhere.
when it indeed was our turn to haul one, we were pleasantly surprised that our
rickshaw was manned by a trio – where the fellow who negotiated the fare with
us doubled as the guide while his two companions took to steering the vehicle.
They of course were most amused that we wanted to see the tea estates or as one
of them pointed out, ‘Chai patti dekhengay aap?’
at their recommendation was had at the centre of the town, right next to the
market place at a very nominal cost from where we proceeded to see a swollen Brahmaputra.
All throughout we were being filled in with tid-bits of information including
how an ‘ijtema’ in the region some years ago had seen the three Khans of
Bollywood make an appearance.
|The mighty and swollen Brahmaputra in Dibrugarh, Assam|
|Getting lost in the world of tea plantations | Dibrugarh, Assam|
|And then some more tea errrr plantations | Dibrugarh, Assam|
Who takes this 83 hour train
turned out that we were not the only ones excited about our next journey to
Kanyakumari. At the time of booking the tickets almost two months prior to the
journey, the Three Tier AC tickets were all gone and there was just one left in
the Two Tier AC – which I immediately grabbed. In fact my ticket to Kanyakumari
on the Vivek Express was booked even before I’d booked one on the Dibrugarh
Rajdhani! So when my friend booked her ticket it came as no surprise that she
was waitlisted at number four. We were hopeful that things would change.
that wasn’t how it was meant to be. So enter Plan B of B where through the
provision of Premium Tatkal suddenly had a confirmed ticket now i.e. a
legitimate claim to be on the train. So what if it was a Sleeper Class ticket
that came at the cost of almost a Two Tier AC ticket!
After the East, it’s the South, but…
while the General Class ticket helped us with accommodation, it couldn’t necessarily
help us out with everything. Our TC in the train that night on the Vivek
Express was visibly irked that we had boarded one station prior. But that wasn’t
his only grouse. My friend had a Sleeper Class ticket and he seemed to want to
ensure one of us made our way to there.
he’d disappeared a second time that night – his last words being an ultimatum
that at the next stop which would now be around 3 AM one of us should move out.
The two of us just sat on the berth swaddled up in the blanket against the
sharp AC draft, eyelids heavy!
be told, we were a little afraid to fall off to sleep, lest he’d return to be
further offended that we’d dozed off.
when morning came, we were in Guwahati and while there was a change in the TC
on duty no one came by to remind us that we had an empty berth waiting for us
at the other end of the train. May be it wasn’t an empty berth anymore. May be
it had another occupant who might’ve coughed up an amount to secure a confirmed
seat for themselves. And as long as the discomfort of sharing a berth was ours
alone, we were content being there.
had been an amazing start to something that had once seemed like a crazy plan.
We had not just made it through the first train journey to the eastern most
part of the country but we were now well on our way to the southern-most part
of the country – yet again by train.
|The longest train ride in the Indian subcontinent - Dibrugarh-Kanyakumari Vivek Express|
|Passing the world by... Or was it the world that was passing us by?|
Labels: Assam, budget travel, Delhi, Dibrugarh, India, Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, trains, travel